Front Slit Midi Skirt
How to use a back-slit skirt to create a Front Slit Midi Knit Skirt using the Christine Jonson Patterns Slit Skirt and Pencil Skirt 330 sewing pattern.
Photo and skirt by Ann Siegle
The back of the skirt has the waistband applied to the center back and the front of the skirt (right) has a higher slit for style - and walking!
The back of a skirt and the front of a skirt in a fitted, shapely knit pattern are rarely exactly the same, so it’s not quite as easy as flipping the skirt around. But we’ll show you in this blog post how to slightly modify the skirt when you cut out the pattern to flip the skirt around to so the walking slit is center front for a modern, fun skirt look.
Using the Slit Skirt pattern (with a separate sew on stretch fabric waistband), you will cut out one size larger than your selected size for the front and one size smaller for the back. In addition, you will NOT cut the shaped dart at the top of the center back near the waistline. Just leave this alone and place the skirt along the fold for a flat front. The back of the skirt (which is now the solid front) you will take a slight dart curve out if needed, while fitting the skirt, before sewing on the waistband.
Adjust the height of the skirt slit panel to be at or just above the knee on you. You may also adjust the hem line at this time. To adjust the slit skirt panel, you can take a piece of tissue paper (cut from the remaining tissue that you cut off the pattern, or use another piece of paper). Lay it under the current pattern back piece, and using a ruler, extend the slit panel up to the finished height you’d like it to start. To walk in this skirt, you’ll want it at least at your knee, if not a few inches above your knee. To adjust the length of the skirt, use the lengthen and shorten lines on the pattern.
Once you have cut your skirt panels, construct the skirt as directed. Before you apply the waistband, try on the skirt to determine if you need darts in the solid back, and if so, using your straight stitch machine, stitch two darts at your back hip bones, on either side of the center back, about 2” from the centerline of the back of the skirt (4” apart). If you don’t need these darts for your body shape, you don’t need to sew them in.
Sew the waistband short edges together as directed in the pattern. Try on the band. It should be snug, as it will be what holds the skirt up. Adjust if necessary. Once you have a good fit, edge serge the band to keep the raw edges together. Quarter mark the band and mark the side seams and center front. Position the center back seam on the new center back (not the new front slit seam!) of your skirt, right sides of the skirt and waistband together. Pin the side seams and center front to the new center front slit seam of the skirt. Stretching the band as you sew, serge the band to the skirt, removing the pins before serging. You may also use Wonderclips instead of pins.
Hem the skirt as instructed!
Styling this skirt:
The skirt looks great with a oversized top layer, such as the Swing Shirt 505, the Boyfriend Jacket, or a slouchy sweater. Try the Three Tees long sleeve version, one size up from your usual, and sew a hip band for a bloused slouchy tee shirt. Or try the Flyaway Top. Wear your skirt with booties or sneakers for an on-trend look.