Comfortable easy-fit clothing for Lycra blend knit and woven fabrics with instructions for professional results

Life in the
Little Black Dress

A Sewing with Knits, How-To Book

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A Collection from CLOTHESLINE Past Issues and Other Assorted Stories

Table of Contents

Preview Articles

 

Pattern and Fabric
by Christine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

"Christine Jonson has successfully taken the fear out of working with knits. Not only that, this book tells you everything you need to know to make your knit garments look totally professional."

Sandra Betzina
Author of More Fabric Savvy, Fast Fit
and Power Sewing Step-By-Step

 

T Shirt Neckline Variations
by Jan Raley (Reprint from Issue 12). . . . . 27

 

Once and For All:
To pre-wash or not to pre-wash

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by Christine . . . . . . . . . . . 46

 

Table of Contents

Foreward by Barbara Elfman Bell ... i
Creative … 1
When to Choose a Knit Fabric ...1
Cutting and Shaping ...3
Topstitching … 4
The Right Length ... 6
Length and Proportion ... 7
Pattern and Fabric ... 8
Color ... 9
Red ... 12
Color Blocking ... 12
A Brief History of Buttons ... 13
Button Decisions ... 15
Buttonholes on Stretch Fabrics ... 16
Sizing for Large Women ... 17
Machine Embroidery on Cotton/LYCRA® ... 19
Crushed Velvet: A Do-It-Yourself Guide ... 20
Understanding Ease ... 22
Claire McCardell, American Designer ... 23
Denim: A Riveting Story ... 25
T-shirt Neckline Variations ... 27
The Measuring Tape … 28
Serger Stitches ... 29
Seam Allowances and Cutting Lines ... 30
Serging Darts ... 30
To Pin or Not To Pin ... 31
Pins and Needles ... 32
Handling Slinky ... 33
Sample Garments ... 34

Simple Fitting ... 35
Building Versatility into Your Wardrobe ... 36
General Instructions in a Hurry: Sewing with Cotton/LYCRA® Knit ... 39
Neckline Alterations: Bell Sleeve Wrap and the Ruffle Top ... 40
Face Shapes and Flattering Necklines ... 41
The “Must Have” Wrap ... 42
Working on Fabrics with LYCRA® by DuPont ... 42
The Best Enchiladas ... 43
STASH … 44
Thoughts … 45
Estimating Yardage ... 46
Seam and Hem Allowance Guide ... 46
Take Care (with Care Chart) ... 47
Fabric Width Conversion ... 48
Did You Know? ... 48
Clip Those Threads ... 49
Assumptions … 49
Turning Corners ... 49
Awl and Point Turner ... 50
The Knitty Walker ... 50
The Importance of Ease and Measurements:
And Presenting Christine Jonson’s “Perfect Sizing” Worksheet ... 51
Worksheet Pages ... 52-53
The Last Page by Christine ... 55
Thank You! … 57

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Pattern and Fabric
by Christine (Reprint from Issue 15)
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A perfect combination every time.

When I teach sewing workshops in my studio the biggest challenge that students have is choosing the fabric for their garment. Fabric appeals to us for a variety of reasons. Emotions seem to play a big part. Sometimes it is the color, sometimes the texture. A wonderful print can brighten your day and inspire you to sew. The right choice is crucial to making your garment a success.

Pairing pattern and fabric is certainly not an exacting science. Whether you are sewing with knits or woven fabrics, the place to begin is the pattern tissue measurements chart. Regardless of the body measurements of the pattern (i.e., if your hips are 42″ you should use a size 14 pattern type chart) you should be choosing the size pattern that will give you the correct fit based on the qualities of your fabric and the desired fit.

The first step is to take your measurements. Write them down on the back of your pattern. Compare them to the body measurements chart and circle the pattern size closest to your measurements. Next, open the instructions guide and find the list of the actual tissue pattern measurements and circle the pattern that you are using. If there are no actual tissue pattern measurements given, measure the pattern at the bust, waist and hips. Depending on what you are making compare the appropriate patterns measurements and choose the size that will give you some ease in the bust, waist and hip areas.

Now it is time to think about your fabric. It is important to keep an open mind at this point. Choose two to three fabrics that you might use and give yourself some options. First determine if your fabric is a knit or a woven fabric. Does it stretch in any direction? If so, how much and does it stretch more one way than the other. Cut a square four inches by four inches and stretch it fully. If a four inch square stretches to eight inches—that is 100% stretch. Does the fabric have LYCRA®? If so, determine how “snappy” the recovery is. Does it stretch softly and recover softly, or does it snap back when stretched. The way the swatch reacts is the way your garment will fit your body. Stop and think about it. Visualize it as a finished garment.

(continued in book)

Once and For All:
To pre-wash or not to pre-wash

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by Christine

Christine Jonson patterns were originally designed with cotton/LYCRA knit fabric in mind. The general instruction pages give reasons why not to pre-wash this particular fabric and explain the fit of the patterns based on this concept.

A knit fabric that lies flat and does not roll, has sizing on the face and is easy to work with does not require pre-washing before garment construction if you take a few things into consideration. These fabrics typically shrink more in length than width. If the pattern you are working with has been sized with this in mind, shrinkage will occur at the final pressing to give it proper fit. Pressing takes place after the garment is constructed otherwise the pressed seams will be shorter than the unpressed seams.

My original patterns are drafted in this manner for cotton/LYCRA. The difference between them and the patterns that followed is they simply offer a bit more ease. Generally speaking, an inch and one half in length and one inch in width. If a fabric is going to be easier to work with un-washed, just add a little extra length and width that you can adjust after construction by pressing. Simple.

All Christine Jonson Patterns include the actual tissue pattern measurements. This guide will allow you to make pre-washing decisions based on the finished garment measurements. So pre-wash and take the shrinkage out ahead of time, or shrink press it out during construction. It doesn’t matter as long as you plan ahead.

Do a test: Cut 2-6″ swatches of fabric and press one with a hot iron and steam, then compare it to the other. This will give you an idea of how much shrinkage to expect. Or, pre-wash and dry one swatch and do the same comparison.

Tip: Knit fabrics, both yardage and garments should be carefully washed either in the washing machine or by hand. Yardage should be folded right sides together and either basted or serged closed before washing. Finished garments should be washed and dried inside out.

T Shirt Neckline Variations
by Jan Raley (Reprint from Issue 12)

Sometimes I’d like a different neckline finish on my T-shirts other than turning and topstitching. I’ve found that binding the edge with either a self fabric strip or fold-over elastic gives me the look I want. The key to a beautifully bound edge is the use of a narrow edge or edge joining presser foot. I use it for the final topstitching on self fabric binding and for the application of fold-over elastic.

Self Fabric Binding:

Cut a strip of fabric on the cross grain (or the grain with the most stretch). The total width will be two times the seam allowance plus two times the finished width of the binding. For example, a strip 1-1/4″
wide with 1/4″ seam allowances gives me a 3/8″ finished binding.

The length takes a little experimentation. The binding will need to be shorter than the
neckline measurement, but too short and it will pucker the shirt. There are ratios or
formulas I could give you, but it is different for each knit based its stretch and recovery. I
do a test run for each application.

(continued in book)